Plx Wideband O2 Install
Ok so possibly on a 1g (91) it dosen't have a heating element wire? On the pin out scymatic it only shows one pin for the o2, or did I miss something? I guess I have to unplug the stocker and see how many wires are on the ecu side of the connection.
I dont remember where I got my last stock o2 sensor but it has four wires. It may not actually use the four wires that the stock o2 sensor has visible. Anyone know for sure if a 91 has a heater wire from the ecu for the o2 sensor?Also antero did you use the noise capacitors?
The 90 Talon uses 4 wire O2 sensor, and it did use a heater element in the OEM O2 sensor. I was cheap, and used a non-heater element version and regret that choice. Without the heater element, O2 voltages were lower than usual.But the good thing from this experience was that the ECU didn't set off the check engine light with the heater element missing.Yes, I did use the supplied capacitor. I had to use some extra wire to extend the lead of one of the capacitor legs so it could reach ground. In fact, I tied this ground wire to my existing ground wire so both ground wires have the same reference point.
Soldering is the only way to go when it comes to making a good connection with a discrete component like the capacitor.The capacitor is optional. It's job is to remove signal noise caused from long wire leads. So depending on your logger, you could offset the voltage in your software until both the logger and M300 display agree with each other.
Or if your software doesn't allow an offset correction, do the corrections in your head when reading the numbers from your logger. Thanks antero and yes I'm deffinatly doing the noise capacitors as well.Ok, I bought the m300 'kit' that comes with everything including the o2 sensor. It's got like seven wires and is definatly a heated bosch sensor.Anyway, What I really need to know is:(#1) Is a 91 oem turbo o2 sensor heated?And if so:(#2) What is the power wire pin number at the ecu that heats the oem o2 sensor?Because, I'm thinking about using the 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor if I get the check engine light after I install the m300 this weekend. If it dosen't then I won't worry about it. I wanna be ready just in case the CEL does comes on. I can't stand when random lights are either on when they should be off or off when they should be on. Call me crazy but that's just me I guess.
Hopefully it won't matter as in Antero's 1990 car's case. 99.99% positive that the 91 will be a heated O2 sensor version.You don't want a 10watt resistor inside your cabin. If you do run into the 'check engine' light problem, re-use your old O2 sensor.
Wire it up such a way that the heater element is hooked up again. You'll just have to be creative as to where you can mount it.This brings up the next point. Are you sure you want to mount the wideband O2 in the factory O2 location?
It may be too hot. The wideband O2 sensor will fail at temperatures above 860 celcius. Because of this, I've mounted mine lower in the exhaust downstream where it will be cooler.
Just my 2cents. Getting a wideband that doesn't log isn't very useful. So you're going to be doing 3rd gear pulls, while looking down at a wideband, seeing if it dips and then trying to remember about where in the rpm range that was, along with not hitting anything or running off the road.
When I was looking at widebands, I wanted to go cheap at first; even the built it yourself cheap kit. But then I didn't trust how accurate some of those would read. I finally decided to go with the innovative LM-1 unit. It can show you instead a/f ratio like all the others. Plus log 45mins worth of data.
PLUS (and a very big bonus) you can pipe in rpm's to log off of an inductive clamp (no splicing into any wires). So now I can look at the road when I do my pull, then pull up the rpm v.s. A/f ratio log on my 166mhz pos laptop in the passenger seat, and can see at what rpm points I need to adjust fuel.I also added the exhaust clamp for the o2 sensor with my order. So I can put the unit on anyone's car. Inductive clamp on a spark plug wire, exhaust clamp with wideband o2 sensor in it attached to the tailpipe. I have lots of new friends now!
Plx Wideband O2 Sensor Kit
I think I paid $480 for my setup (LM-1 unit, inductive rpm clamp, exhaust o2 sensor clamp, pc log viewing software.). Click to expand.If it's an update for the obd loggers, then having a 1g OBD1 pocketlogger log an additional value like the wideband wouldn't be much of a problem; you guys get crazy high sample rates. Isn't it like 30 or 40 samples per second. We 2g guys aren't that lucky.
I see high sample rates of 17 or 18 samples per second. Other 97 and 96 cars only see 8-9 samples per second. We don't have enough sam/sec to log the important stuff like timing and rpm.
Forget about logging something like a wideband signal at that low of a sample rate. Unless for 2g's you can log the wideband at a faster sample rate than OBDII values. I also added the exhaust clamp for the o2 sensor with my order.
So I can put the unit on anyone's car. Inductive clamp on a spark plug wire, exhaust clamp with wideband o2 sensor in it attached to the tailpipe. I have lots of new friends now!
Wideband O2 Controller
I think I paid $480 for my setup (LM-1 unit, inductive rpm clamp, exhaust o2 sensor clamp, pc log viewing software.)QUOTE/That is a pretty cool setup! I can use the plx to do the same just have to bung a pipe and not be able to datalog Oh well I bought it for me mostly anyway so I'm happy and my setup was about $150 cheaper. I probably would not have gotten the m300 if I couldn't datalog with it. Plx does have the m400 and 500 that will log, they log wirelessly. They are in the price range of what you paid but I don't think they have the exhaust clamp and inductive rpm clamp. 499 for the m500 and 469 for the m400 without the exhaust clamp and inductive rpm clamp. ( I just looked it up plxdevices.com) So the lm1 seems to be a good deal for 2g guys or guys that want to charge other people to tune their cars.