Marshall Lead 12 Combo Manually

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Marshall Lead 12 Combo Manually Rating: 7,4/10 1376 votes

I just picked up a Marshall Lead 12 amp head today and have a question about the headphone jack on the rear of the head. Is it safe to run the amp with headphones while not connected to a speak cabinet, or does it need that 8ohm speaker load all the time?Also, the Lead 12 is currently sharing a 2x12 with my other amp (a Mesa DC-3). Right now I am just swapping the cable but am so paranoid about frying the amps that I am unplugging the one not connected to the cab. Is there a splitter cable I could put on the input to the cab and then keep both amps plugged into the same cab? I would only ever use one at a time and that would simply save me some hassle while also protecting against an accidental power-on (i.e. If the kids got to it). From an electronics point of view and from what I've been told, you should be able to run it without a load.

Marshall Lead 12 Combo Manually To Wifi

With Solid State, its minimum impedance that's the big importance. Why you have to run either 1x8 ohm speaker with the head, or 2x16 ohm. Anything less and you'll fry it.So, yeah. You can run it, with just the headphones, though.

Most headphone jacks I've heard/read about on the 3005 suck (incl. Most, won't allow you to plug the phones all the way in, without cutting out sound on one side. Pull it out slightly, for both ears.

It works, sounds OK. Just annoying.Plus, when you plug in phones, it cuts the cabs out of the equation. I don't think their load is still on the circuit (though, I could be wrong.

I'm not an amp tech. Just gobs of old electronics experience).EDIT: You want to run two amps, into one cab, using a Y-adaptor? I don't think that's such a great idea. Not sure, but if both were to get turned on, the amps would be sharing that impedance load. Man, too many cobwebs. I'll save that one, for someone with more experience on the specific subject. Sorry, man; I'm no amp tech.

Marshall Lead 12 Combo Manually To Wifi

What I see looks like so much electronic spaghetti. I'll have to refer to my Marshall book at home to figure out what amp I'm thinking of. My gut tells me the amp I'm thinking of is of about the same vintage, but is tube driven.

Somehow, the name Studio 12 comes to mind.EDIT:Yep, There was an amp by Marshall as such. I found this on the internet:Marshall 4001, aka Studio 15 - 18 watt 1x12 combo, 6V6's, attenuatorThis amp is shown in the book History of Marshall, page 66, with black and white photo. Also, my Marshall amp brochure from about 1989 covers it.Great 4001 amp Tone samples (guitar songs) from. Artist: (mp3.com)Michael, I also have another clip featuring a nice Tele sound on MP3.com. Learning to Farm.SporkLearning to Farm (great Tele amp Tone)( by M Carlyle - I archived, but took down due to bandwidth cap.

Not available.)The used guitar store told me that these do show up, and an appropriate price is $300, not $500. $300 street. 15 watts, all tube. 2 6V6 power tubes. The first and only Marshall to use 6V6's. Built-in attenuator: 25 watt, 10 ohm, wire-wound power resistor.

The 'speaker emulator' one user's term is 'nice for headphone use or for recording use'. The first and only Marshall amp to include a built-in attenuator. Balanced direct XLR Out - the only guitar amp in the brochure to have this.

Headphone jack on the back.

Right now I am just swapping the cable but am so paranoid about frying the amps that I am unplugging the one not connected to the cab. Is there a splitter cable I could put on the input to the cab and then keep both amps plugged into the same cab? I would only ever use one at a time and that would simply save me some hassle while also protecting against an accidental power-on (i.e. If the kids got to it). From an electronics point of view and from what I've been told, you should be able to run it without a load. With Solid State, its minimum impedance that's the big importance.

Why you have to run either 1x8 ohm speaker with the head, or 2x16 ohm. Anything less and you'll fry it.So, yeah.

You can run it, with just the headphones, though. Most headphone jacks I've heard/read about on the 3005 suck (incl. Most, won't allow you to plug the phones all the way in, without cutting out sound on one side. Pull it out slightly, for both ears. It works, sounds OK. Just annoying.Plus, when you plug in phones, it cuts the cabs out of the equation.

I don't think their load is still on the circuit (though, I could be wrong. I'm not an amp tech. Just gobs of old electronics experience).EDIT: You want to run two amps, into one cab, using a Y-adaptor? I don't think that's such a great idea. Not sure, but if both were to get turned on, the amps would be sharing that impedance load.

Man, too many cobwebs. I'll save that one, for someone with more experience on the specific subject. Sorry, man; I'm no amp tech. What I see looks like so much electronic spaghetti.

I'll have to refer to my Marshall book at home to figure out what amp I'm thinking of. My gut tells me the amp I'm thinking of is of about the same vintage, but is tube driven.

Learning to Farm.SporkLearning to Farm (great Tele amp Tone)( by M Carlyle - I archived, but took down due to bandwidth cap. Not available.)The used guitar store told me that these do show up, and an appropriate price is $300, not $500. $300 street. 15 watts, all tube. 2 6V6 power tubes. The first and only Marshall to use 6V6's. Built-in attenuator: 25 watt, 10 ohm, wire-wound power resistor.