Weld Assistant 6 Cracker
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There is a hairline crack that goes 2/3rds of the way around the tube.I've read everything I could find on the subject, but this is my first attempt at welding cast iron. I am prepared for pre and post heating, grind out the crack a little bit, etc. My question is about rod selection. I picked up a package of Nomacast as it said it was good for heat-affected, contaminated, cast iron. Then I read on here that most use 55 to 95 nickel rods. The Nomacast says it is nickel-free.
Is it still a good choice for this repair? Why is it nickel free?
I don't need to machine it or anything.Anyone have a good experience with the nickel-free Nomacast?Appreciate any advice. I've never welded CI w/ Nomacast, but i am familliar w/ lincoln Ferroweld - which is the same idea.i like it great for ornamental, non-structural, non-cosmetic, (cheap) cast iron welds.for the job you want to do, i'd use NI-99 or 55. It's not going to be hard and brittle like nomacast.
It costsabout $40/lb for nickel rod vs $5/lb for ferroweld type. I have some Harris NI-59that i'm partial to.nickel welds look like.
Shiny nickel, so if that's an issue - use the cheap stuff andhope for the best. One way I've read but not tried is to use a sharp chisel and hammer on a corner edge.
Cast steel is soft enough so you can chisel off a thin 'wire' along the edge, while cast iron is brittle and only will chip off piece by piece.Another method should be to check grinding spark colour, diffrent metals give diffrent sparks.Brazing is generally a good repair method for cast iron, but unsuitable for anything being used at too high temperature. Might be fine on the manifold of a low performance engine, but wouldn't work on a turbo manifold that gets red hot after a few minutes of full throttle. I've got an old Dillon, the same as the Henrob/Cobra 2000/DHC2000 but the name has changed through the years. Bought mine used a couple of years ago, manufacturing date says 1985 and it's still going strong.I know nothing about Amweld, I just like their demo videos on Youtube - there are other sellers like and a guy from there ('Henrob Jim' I think) has been answering alot of questions about it at the Metalmeet forum. Cutlikeplasma also has some videos, but older and lower quality.Personally, I love it. But I am just an amateur, and this is the only welder I have and can use so I have nothing else to compare it to. I did my research, thought about what kind of welding I would be doing, where I'd be doing it (limited access to electricity) and the Dillon is what ended up fitting my needs and 'wants' best - the only option here would have been a TIG and at the same price that would mean one from the stoneage or some chinese junk - the difficulty getting parts if it breaks made me run away from those options!Doing that research I heard and read alot about what other people think about it.
Some love it, others hate it, often for not being able to adapt to the pistolgrip after learning to use conventional O/A welders first. It does do what they say it does, but alot of other quality O/A welders will probably do the same jobs equally well. Long story short.it held without cracking. I couldn't keep it from undercutting, but other than that it worked OK. I practiced on a different piece of scrap cast. It welded great.the manifold did not.
I hope I never have to do a critical weld on cast.Thanks for all the tips!Verdict - Nomacast is ok stuff. The operator (me) is less than great.It's not so much undercut as it's some of the surface just going away with an exhaust manifold.
Where the cast gets hot in proximity to oxygen more of it turns to iron oxide.So near the outside of the manifold you have iron, iron oxide & the original carbon. When an electric arc hits it the oxides go away - 'POOF'. If you are going to use an arc process then something like the 309SS Tozzi mentioned works pretty well because it has lots of chrome & chrome loves to get together with the loose carbon laying around as the oxides get blown away and it actually wets to the surface pretty good. The down side is chrome carbides are super hard and don't stretch at all.Ni-rod works well with good cast iron mostly because it's soft & upsets as the iron grows & shrinks, but it never really looks very good while you are welding with it.The nomacast seems to me more like a mild steel core like 7018 with some graphite or similar in the flux.I've never used a pistol type torch (henrob like) but I've gas welded cast a fair bit with both CI and mild steel and it's pretty much a no fail deal after you work it out with some practice. Below is a vid of me welding the wifes cracked CI flower pot some years back with Kastweld 111 bare CI rod;amewas having so much fun with the new video camera & the welding I turned the thing over and ran into the hoop strength vs yeild & ran into the dreaded Cast iron 'BANG' thing in case no ones ever heard it. Anyway for some comedy (turn the sound up!);amehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LShL4ZkM8/ameMatt.
Method I've used for years with great success: grind the crack, drill stop at ends of crack for stress relief. Without drill stops it will just start a new crack right past where you welded. I use a DC arc welder and high nickel rod, but it's been a while, can't remember the rod's nomenclature, but they're red coated. It's a standard DC Arc rod for cast iron, LWS should know what it is.Prior to starting welding, build up a monster barbecue fire with lots and lots of charcoal in something big enough to take the whole part, and have a lid to cover it too. Preheat the piece before starting weld and even during welding if you have a helper. Soon as it's done welding toss it directly onto barbecue's hot fire and thick bed of coals, close the lid and let it bake with a slight vent allowed for airflow.
Weld Assistant 6 Crack
Leave it to bake overnight undisturbed.When you come back in the morning the cast iron has been normalized throughout its entire structure at the same heat, has cooled gradually at the same descending temp throughout, all the way to cold. It will be ready for anything you can throw at it. It's easy, cheap, low tech and works just fine including cast iron cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds.
However on some cylinder heads and even exhaust manifolds I prefer brazing instead of arc.
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